Beginner’s Guide to Identifying Jewelry Materials
Hello and welcome! Whether you’ve been gifted an unknown piece of jewelry, or you’re starting a journey into making, collecting, or selling jewelry, it’s important to know what you’re dealing with. This beginner’s guide is for all of you who are new to the fascinating world of jewelry. This guide will help you find your bearings and make it a little less overwhelming to identify jewelry materials. So, let’s jump right in!
Definition of Key Terms
Before we delve into the different types of materials used in jewelry, let’s clarify some key terms you might come across in this guide.
- Jeweler’s loupe: This is a small magnification tool used by jewelers to see fine details clearly. It’s especially helpful in examining small markings on jewelry pieces or checking the clarity of gemstones.
- Acid test: An acid test is a method used to determine the karat of gold. A small scratch is made on the gold piece and a drop of acid is applied to the scratched area. If it’s real gold, the color of the scratch doesn’t change.
- Magnet test: This is a simple way to check if a piece of jewelry is made of real gold or silver. Neither gold nor silver is magnetic, so if the piece is attracted to a magnet, it’s likely not made from these precious metals.
Explanation of Different Materials
Gold
One of the most popular materials in jewelry making, gold is prized for its lustre and ability to resist tarnish. Pure gold (24 karat) is too soft for everyday use, so it’s often mixed (alloyed) with other metals to increase its durability. Lower karat gold pieces, such as 14K or 10K, contain less gold and are therefore less valuable.
Pro tip: Look for a stamp or hallmark on the jewelry piece that indicates the karat. It might be tiny, so you’ll want to use your jeweler’s loupe!
Silver
Like gold, silver is too soft in its pure form to be used in jewelry. Instead, sterling silver, an alloy composed of 92.5% silver and 7.5% of other metals, is often used. This makes the jewelry more durable while maintaining the silver’s beautiful shine. Silver jewelry can be identified by looking for stamps reading ‘Sterling,’ ‘Ster,’ or ‘925.’
Sterling Silver: High-quality, durable material, used in fine jewelry
Platinum
Platinum is a highly regarded metal for jewelry due to its strength, durability, and resistance to tarnish. However, its rarity makes it a pricier option. Identifying platinum can be a bit trickier but look for hallmarks such as ‘PLAT’ or ‘950’
Gemstones
Gemstones are often used in jewelry to add color and value. There are many types of gemstones, each with their own properties, from diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, to opals, pearls, and jade. Identifying gemstones can be challenging, as many look similar. However, hardness, color, and light refraction can help us tell them apart
Glass and Zircon
Both glass and Cubic Zirconia (often just referred to as Zircon) are common materials used in costume jewelry and are popular choices as substitutes for more expensive gemstones. Let’s delve more into detail for each.
Glass:
Glass beads have been used in jewelry making for thousands of years. With modern technology, they can be fashioned to mimic a variety of precious and semi-precious stones due to their versatility and the variety of colors, shapes, and finishes achievable.
However, compared to gemstones, glass beads are far less brilliant and have a much smoother feel. When applied with high heat, a glass bead changes its appearance to a cracked texture, known as “crackled glass”. These features, along with their lower price point, are some of the clues you might be dealing with glass.
Zircon:
Cubic Zirconia, common in the jewelry world, is a synthesized or ‘man-made’ material created to mimic diamonds due to its high refractive index and rather impressive fire. While they are not as durable on the Mohs scale as diamonds (registering an 8 rather than a 10 for diamonds), they do possess a very similar visual aesthetic.
Cubic Zirconia tends to hold more rainbow light (fire) compared to a true diamond. It’s also noticeable that Cubic Zirconia is almost always flawless, whereas most diamonds have inclusions or flaws. These are crucial points to consider when determining whether a gemstone is a diamond or Cubic Zirconia.
Identification Techniques
Depending on the material, there are several techniques you can use to identify your unknown piece of jewelry.
For example, you can use a jeweler’s loupe to look for hallmarks that could tell you the metal’s purity or a magnet test to roughly determine what metal a piece made from . For gemstones, hardness and specific gravity tests can help confirm their identity.
Remember, these tests are basic techniques and might not give definitive results. When in doubt, always consult with a professional jeweler.
Awareness of Fake or Mixed Materials
In the world of jewelry, not everything that glitters is gold. Understanding that some jewelry materials can be fake or mixed is a crucial part of learning about jewelry identification.
According to The Spruce Crafts, fake jewelry is often plated with gold or silver but made mostly of an inexpensive base metal like copper or nickel.
One quick test for fake precious metal jewelry is to use a magnet. Pure gold and silver are not magnetic, so if your jewelry is attracted to the magnet, it’s likely not real gold or silver.
Sometimes, a piece of jewelry might be made of “mixed materials”, meaning it includes several different kinds of metals or gemstones. While mixing materials is a common practice in jewelry design, it’s vital for a buyer to understand what each material is and its quality.
So, always research or seek professional advice if you’re unsure about a piece.
Caring for Different Jewelry Materials
Now that you’ve got the hang of identifying different jewelry materials, let’s discuss how to care for them so they can last longer and continue to sparkle!
Gold: Remove gold jewelry when swimming or bathing to avoid damage. Wipe it regularly with a soft cloth to keep it looking shiny.
Silver: Store silver in a cool, dry place to avoid tarnish. Polish it with a soft cloth or special silver cleaning solution.
Platinum: Although it’s durable, platinum can still get scratched. Remove it during physical activities.
Gemstones: Clean gemstones with mild soapy water and a soft toothbrush. Be gentle, as some gemstones can be scratched or damaged easily.
Glass and Zircon: These imitations are more sensitive to harsh chemicals and scratches. Only use a soft cloth and gentle detergent for cleaning.
Regardless of the material, it’s always a safe bet to store your jewelry pieces separately in soft cloth bags to prevent scratching and tarnishing.
Conclusion
Starting your journey in jewelry identification can seem daunting, but remember, every expert was once a beginner. Apply the knowledge from this guide, practise identifying different materials, and soon you’ll be confident in your abilities.
No longer will jewelry materials be a mystery to you – instead, you’ll view each piece with an informed eye, appreciating the craftsmanship that went into it.
Welcome to the wonderful world of jewelry! Enjoy the journey!